The perfume

Following in the traces of the book "The Perfume" by Patrick Süskind.

Thursday, June 02, 2005

Auberge de Hulotte

After lunch in Miremont yesterday, the track continued along the artificial lake Besserve. A big poster showed how the lake was divided in sections for sailing, motor boats, fishing etc. At one point I arrived at a nice beach. There was even a big lawn above it. I decided to stay there for the night.

Even if the water held probably something like 22 degrees and the sun was shining from a clear blue sky, there was nearly noone there. I jumped in the water and had a refreshing swim. On the other side of the water there seemed to be some kind of sailing school, profiting from the breeze from the north.

I sun dried my skin and then made a sandwich from the food I had bought in Miremont. As the sun was starting to set, I realized that it was going to be a cold night. Also, being next to the water meant it would be even colder, and since I was deep down in a valley, the sun wouldn't access my camp spot until late next morning. So, I decided to continue to the next hill, St.Jaques d'Ambur. Then, the sun would heat my tent up first thing in the morning.

As I crossed through the center of the town, I suddenly saw a sign 'Auberge 500 m'. I decided to check it out. A bed felt like a good idea.

When I reached the Auberge, it looked closed, but I rang the bell next door to have it confirmed. A man opened the door and said the auberge was closed, but that the owners had a farm 700 m further on where they also had rooms. I considered it the engineering way. If it was a dead end, the whole thing would make me walk an extra 2x500m + 2x700m = 2400m in total, for nothing. But it felt plausibel that the owners would be there, so I decided to give it a go.

I arrived at the farm. Two cats waiting outside looked hopefully up at me as I knocked on the door. Was two knocks on the door going to succeed where hours of miaowing had failed? No. Noone answered the door.

I found it a bit strange there was noone home, as there were three cars parked around the house. I decided to shout 'Allo' with a loud voice.

From a house on the opposite side of the square I immediately heard an answer: 'Bææh'.

Being an engineer you never take anything for granted, so I went to check. But statistics were against me. It was indeed a sheep, and not the owner pretending to be a sheep, that had answered my call.

Constructively, I started on my way back, thinking about where to put the tent. But, as I left the square, I suddenly noticed a small house retracted from the others. Luck was with me this time. The daughter of the farm and her husband lived there, and they were home. They gave me a room to 15€ per night and invited me in for a cup of coffee.
Ole, the long one, is joining me in Clermont Ferrand on saturday. I was planning to take the train there from the railway station, which is only 10 km en route from here. But, it turned out during the coffee break, that the husband was working in the center of Clermont Ferrand, and I can ride with him on friday. So I've decided to stay two days here on the farm.

The sun is shining, the birds are singing, and it's time to have some breakfast.