The perfume

Following in the traces of the book "The Perfume" by Patrick Süskind.

Wednesday, June 01, 2005

Miremont

It's been two days now since my last update.

Monday evening, I walked a short distance from Evaux les bains to a small river where I put my tent up. The next morning, I got up early and continued walking. The sun was rising as I strolled along the small country roads. Since all the dogs in the farms starts barking when a foreigner pass, the locals got an early morning too.

I have had big problems finding the red and white stripes that marks the track GR41 from Evaux les bains and on. Since my map isn't very detailed (1:100 000), it was sometimes difficult to choose the right path. But, I gradually worked my way in the right direction. Seeing traces from red and white stripes once in a while felt good...

I chatted a bit with an old couple that filled up my water bottles on the way. They said it was the community that was responsible for the marking. Which explained the quality difference of the tracks in the different regions I have traversed.

I didn't plan to walk very far yesterday, but the sandals working so well (thanks mum), I ended up doing the longest bit so far. 40 km. The GPS actually stopped working because I had been on the road for 14 hours (max battery capacity). So, the pace was piano, and I had long breaks.

One of the reasons I pressed on as far as 40 km, was that the old couple had told me there was a restaurant at the lake Etange de Chancelade. Actually, I think the word Etange is a word for a lake with rivers coming in only, i.e. the water goes into the ground. At least I can't see any rivers coming out from it on the map. Anyone knows a similar word in english and norwegian?

On my way to the lake, I stopped at a house to ask for directions. The couple there told me that the GR41 was no longer maintained, hence the bad marking. They were very helpful and called the restaurant to check if it was open. Unfortunately it was closed on tuesdays. Instead, the couple made me a nice sandwich and gave me an apple. A nice change to the cereal bars (carbohydrates and vitamines) and peanuts (proteins) which is my emergency food.

The couple told me it was nice to camp next to the lake, so I went the last 3 km, put my tent up, and had a swim as the sun was setting.

Right now, I am relaxing after having found a small restaurant in Miremont, where I had a nice lunch. I am continuing to St.Jaques d'Ambur, Montfermy and le Bouchet today and tomorrow.

The weather is still nice, but due to the wind coming from the north right now, it gets quite cold in the morning. This morning a farmer told me it was only 7 degrees celsius. I have to start the day with warm, long underwear, then switch to long pants and a sweater only, and finally around 10 o'clock I can put my short and T-shirt on.